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2007年5月13日 星期日

濃密的深色水果


產地 : Speyside 斯佩賽

列為「最高等級」的麥芽威士忌;成立於1890年間,位於Rothes與Elgin之間,且緊鄰它的姊妹廠,Benriach。這家蒸餾廠的麥芽威士忌主要為Chivas調和威士忌的主要基酒。所以我們很驚訝這桶麥芽威士忌能免除,並讓我們有機會品嚐到。舊的歐勒蘿索雪莉酒桶(Oloroso sherry butt)將威士忌染成深琥珀色,並帶點紅色的光輝。一開始聞時有水果般耐人尋味的濃密香氣─過熟的水果,慢慢變成浸泡在來姆酒的乾果,接著轉變為溶解的羌活和糖漬的果皮香。再仔細細聞,還可以聞到麝香葡萄的芳香、橡木油脂的味道,最後是假漆的味道。不摻水也容易入喉;甜美乾純的馥郁口感,但不過於強烈,與些許雪利桶的餘香。加水後會讓原本的複雜風味平坦化;假漆的味道提高,並多添了劃火柴的氣味(選酒團隊認為這是雪莉桶通常會產生的氣味),和些許乾百里香的味道。易於入喉的陳年酒;充滿著果香、雪利桶,和劃火柴時的味道。

A ‘Top Class’ malt from an 1890’s distillery standing between Rothes and Elgin, on the site of an ancient chapel and close to its sister distillery, Benriach. The make is a key filling for the Chivas blends, so it is surprising that this cask escaped. An ex-Oloroso butt has coloured this a glorious deep amber, with magenta lights. The first nose is dense, dark and fruity – over-ripe fruit, becoming rum-soaked dried fruits and Christmas cake and resolving as angelica and glace peel; Muscat grapes; a nuttiness and an oiliness, with boat varnish. It drinks well straight; sweet and mouth-drying; rich, but not overpowering, with some sherry in the aftertaste. Adding only a little water tends to flatten its complexity; raising varnish notes, introducing struck matches (what the Panel would we expect from sherry wood) and a trace of dried thyme. The flavour is pleasant and mild, fruity, with sherry and struck matches; rounded and aged.

盆栽用土與游泳池


產地 : Islay 艾雷島
因為維多利亞女王極為偏愛這家蒸餾廠的威士忌,酒廠特別為女王從艾雷島免稅運送到女王位於溫沙堡的住所!熟成於雪莉酒桶(Butt)的14年,給予了威士忌古董般的誘人的古銅色。我們更進一步被它的燒焦的焦糖香味和裊裊上升的雪茄煙味所深深的吸引住。純飲留給我們盆栽用土和硫磺煙的味道的印象。不過這款麥芽威士忌在加水後,它的風味迅速的展現開來。燒焦的BBQ口味的香腸,和淡淡的舊馬尼拉紙製的信封;口感更混合了多種Islay獨特的強烈特色─煤炭土、硫磺和游泳池。如此精采的風味當然能”取悅”維多利亞女王。

Queen Victoria was so partial to a dram of this fine whisky that the distillery transported it from Islay to Windsor for her duty free! 14 years in a refill butt has imparted an inviting antique copper colour. We were tempted further by aromas of burnt caramel, Blackjack sweets and cigar smoke. Tasting without water left us with an impression of John Innes potting compost and sulphur smoke. With water this dram develops greatly. There is burnt BBQ sausages and (for some) the sense of old Manila envelopes. This is mixed with more powerful Islay characteristics; coal dust, sulphur and swimming pools. Queen Victoria would certainly be “amused”!

佛朗明歌舞者


產地 : Speyside 斯佩賽

來自世界第二大品牌的單一麥芽威士忌,位於Speyside區的River Livet旁。使用的是美國大酒桶(Hogshead)來熟成這款夏天般的麥芽威士忌,而酒的色澤有如金雀花酒般的金黃色。相當的錯綜複雜─不摻水的香氣如閃爍著芳香的蜂蜜、柑橘油、水果冰沙、鳳梨、添加辛香料的餅乾、茶櫃的香味,和淡淡的煙薰味。當加水後,它有肉桂、鳳梨蛋糕、薄荷、香橙花和Manzanilla橄欖的氣味-西班牙南部的主題漸漸浮現在我們的眼前。純飲的口感是富麗、溫暖、甜美,與柑橘和胡椒的辛香味。加水後,感到酒的風味被展開,但酒質依然保留原有的長度。甜美的酒體帶點柑橘的點綴,讓整體的口感是平衡和充滿活力氣勢的。就像是位西班牙的佛朗明歌舞者。

The world’s number two malt from the ‘longest glen’ in Scotland. A refill hoggie produced this summery dram, the colour of gorse wine. Certainly complex – the nose at full strength is perfumed and shimmering with honey, orange oil, sherbet, pineapple cubes, spicy biscuits, tea chests and light smoke. Diluted, it has cinnamon, pineapple upside-down cake, mint, orange blossom and Manzanilla olives – an Andalusian theme emerging. The flavour is rich, warm, sweet and spicy with orange and pepper. It opens up with water while retaining its length. Sweet-bodied with a citrus edge, it has balance and energy, like a Flamenco dancer.